| Month | High | Low | Rain |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 32 | 25 | 2.23 |
| Feb | 35 | 25 | 1.38 |
| Mar | 40 | 28 | 1.63 |
| Apr | 50 | 36 | 2.22 |
| May | 61 | 44 | 2.59 |
| Jun | 66 | 51 | 2.95 |
| Jul | 71 | 56 | 2.95 |
| Aug | 70 | 55 | 3.16 |
| Sep | 62 | 49 | 3.52 |
| Oct | 48 | 40 | 4.07 |
| Nov | 39 | 33 | 3.10 |
| Dec | 32 | 27 | 1.87 |
Halfway down the mountain, my eyes began to water and the wind pushed at my back. I adjusted my foothold on the sled runners and urged the dogs on, still miles from the warm cabin that would mark the end of today's run.
Loping wolf-like for five, 10, then 30 miles, the dogs willingly pull our wooden sleds with unflagging stamina. We stand, one foot on each runner, sliding over the snow-covered terrain and atop ice-hard rivers, leaning left, then right, shouting commands in Norwegian. It's one man and four huskies per sled. The dogs surprise us with their eagerness; in the mornings, they jump and strain to reach the sled, barking excitedly as we strap on the harnesses, ready to burst into action.
Bundled warmly, our knees bent, we move to the rhythms of this isolated landscape, ducking under birch limbs and negotiating bumps in the glistening, trackless snow. On a hilltop, we come upon a cluster of huts, painted red, seemingly too tiny for anyone to live in; more like dwellings from a fairy tale. We fly quietly by, and then there's only the whirling wind and the wide whiteness. Silent but for the sounds of paws on powder, we "sail" out from the scrubs and over a crest, bounding down into the valley. The sunset surrounds us in sweeping, dramatic swirls of pink and blue. We've seen no one else for days.
An army background helped prepare Per Thore Hansen for his rigorous work in the Arctic. He has led several expeditions and more than 100 weeklong dog-sled trips throughout northern Scandinavia. In 2006, he took travellers on a skiing expedition across Greenland's icecap, and in 2009 he led the Noruk dog sled expedition to the North Pole.
Arrive at the Bardufoss Airport, high above the Arctic Circle, and transfer to the Welcome Inn Hotel Lyngskroa. At dinner this evening, your expedition guide briefs the team on temperatures and snow conditions along the trail, which will determine your route through the mountain passes and high Alpine valleys.
Welcome Inn Hotel Lyngskroa DA caravan of dogs, sleds and gear follow you toward Norway's border with Finland. Start your challenging expedition in Signaldalen. Over the next four days, the route takes you through the most remote region in all of Scandinavia. During the day, the dog teams run for hours at a fast pace as you steer past forests cut by frozen rivers, glacier lakes and snow-covered rocky peaks. At night, you are in one of the best places on earth to see the Northern Lights, when waves of luminous green cover the night sky. Your cabins on the trail are rustic but comfortable. Sit in front of the pot-bellied stove or fireplace to eat breakfasts and dinners prepared by a chef who uses local ingredients; lunches are eaten on the trail.
Mountain Cabins B L DThe route through the wilderness takes you across the border into Sweden. There are no checkpoints, only snow-covered trails through endless spruce, pine and birch forests. This afternoon, the dogs enjoy the downward slope as you make your way out of the mountains and back to Skjaerhaugen and Odd Knut's farm. In the evening, enjoy a refreshing sauna and a soak in the hot tub, followed by dinner in the "firehouse," a special north country building that serves "outdoor" cookouts indoors.
Rundhaug Gjestegard Hotel B L DReturn to the airport for a connecting flight to Oslo and your international flight home.
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